When planting trees, the very first thing you need to consider before selecting a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you could be tempted by all of the different species that are offered, take care to choose carefully, especially if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.
It really is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting a mature tree is difficult and can be costly if done professionally. It may well justify the expense, however, if a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. Everything you are paying or may be the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.
The optimum time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall. You can plant trees in full leaf with the aid of wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss before roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.
When planting Tree health assessment Nambour over 6 feet in height, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.
Since the root system needs fertile soil when it's planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. Underneath should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly blended with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.
Manure may be used sparingly and really should only be spread on the top of the hole or it could burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the higher for the tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it however, not under the roots. If you hit a layer of building debris or clay, that is never uncommon near a house, you need to remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or on top of that, garden humus.
If you are planting a bare root seedling, you should protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it may be kept before planting given that it is dormant.
This implies laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and covering the roots with good soil. While you are ready to go on it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from contact with air before planting and in addition from any air pockets which may exist round the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to stay the soil in the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it is to grow and complete the soil around it.
Work the soil round the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and make certain there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. When the hole is two-thirds, of the way full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete the remaining soil without tramping it down, so that the water will drain towards the trunk.
A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a solid ball of soil in which it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held set up by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.
If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and allow it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the very top once you put the tree set up, and roll it back a few inches. You'll plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.
Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the first year, the more cultivation around the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep the moisture in the bottom.